You didn't make those lift blocks out of 1-1/2" exhaust pipe, did you?
Chris
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You didn't make those lift blocks out of 1-1/2" exhaust pipe, did you?
Chris
i was accually thinking about doing something like that, i was thinking rubber, but those pictures accually looked good, i might try that, or i might have my exhaust come out their, so that might be a idea too, 5 inch tips will fill it up nice:happy10:Quote:
Hey Stampy, Heres an idea to take care of the space between the bed and the frame. This company and a few more sell these things:
http://www.liftlips.com/
But I think you could make some out of 16ga. sheet metal and paint em' black. See ya, Jay
:D no.......i think it will work fine though, with all 8 mounts, and rubber, it should be fine right?Quote:
You didn't make those lift blocks out of 1-1/2" exhaust pipe, did you?
Chris
December 3rd, 2007 10:06 AM
my biggest worry would be the small footprint of the "blocks" you used and the dramatic increase in leverage the body now has on the body mount bolts. every time you take a corner or hit the brakes the body is going to try and shift and it wouldn't surprise me if the sheetmetal of the body, or the bolts fatigue over time. twisting it up off road will enhance this too. In my opinion, no more than 2" of body lift, and use a normal body mount puck.Quote:
Originally Posted by foodstamp
ya, i was going to make some with a bigger foot print, i was thinking the same thing too. on the body i used some really big fiber blocks, and the chevy rubber, i dont think its going anyware, jaydoggie seen it, what do you think JD?....i agree on the bed, but i needed to mount it and put it back on, im going to make some different ones, thats why i only mad 4 of the little ones, these next ones will be as round as the cab and have the same rubber.
do you guys think that would work out, i was going to use 2 1/5 pipe or 3 inch
In nearly any body lift situation, no more than 2" is recommended.......although I have seen some pretty crazy stuff out there.Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanroo
yeah there are some crazy do-it-yourselfers out there that make some sweet hack jobs. some of it is scary
oh, i was accually going with 3 inch as my game plan, then i for got to compensate the rubber, so maby ill cut it down to 3 inch blocks, i think that if i go any lower i might be getting into some trouble.....or is 4 inch not that bad enough to worry about all and all its probly a 3 1/2 becouse of the weight ontop of the rubber. let me know becouse i can alwase try it out, but only if its worth it
What size tires were you going to run, stampy?
Do you not read any of the responses to your post? I think more than 1 person strongly suggested not going above 2". It doesn't matter how thick the tube wall is, or how big the diameter of the tube is. You are changing the geometry of the mounts, and thus going from just a shear load produced onto the body bolts, to a combined shear and moment load (Moment comes from the increased leverage you now have). You put some weight in the back of that thing, get going off road and hit the body, your going to possibly bend and/or fatige the bolts. I'm not sure why your worried about body lift over 2" anyways, the stock 715 springs aren't the greatest for suspension flex.
If I HAD to have more than 2" of body lift, I would totally redo the bed and body mounts. Cut them off and make new ones that are the correct height, none of this "block" stuff. Thats just my opinion though.
Rollie did a 3 inch lift by cuttng off the stock and making strong, all new body mounts...he is an engineer so he understood that right away.
I wouldnt go any other way.