M715 project underway 305 chevy with 200-4R auto

12 sounds a lot better than zero Paul. Hopefully it hold out for you


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I love the sound and smell of diesel.

I've been driving my truck whenever I can for the last few months. But I hate looking down at the oil pressure gauge and seeing such low pressure at warm idle.

I picked up a 6.2 from a Cucv blazer last Monday. It is basically a short block with 60k miles on it (it has one head installed). My thought was to take the heads off my old 6.2 that has a rod knock and install them on it.

Today I traded my old work laptop for a well used (160k miles) 1998 6.5 turbo diesel engine. It is mostly complete missing only the starter and alternator. The crossover looks good and the down pipe is also good.

The engine came out of a truck that burned. The wiring harness melted on the engine so I know the engine compartment must have gotten pretty hot. I'm not really sure if any of the parts I want are good but I suspect they are. The rubber parts on the front of the engine look fine.

So now I'm trying to hatch a plan.

My first thought is to take my DB2 pump and lines from the old 6.2 and swap them on the 6.5 to get rid of the electric IP.

I've already built a stand and mounted the engine on it. I will be mounting a radiator and connecting it up so I can run the engine long enough to test the engine well before I bother installing it in the truck. I will be dropping the pan to check the webs for cracks before I go too far.

If the 6.5 doesn't pan out I will swap the 6.2 cucv engine onto the stand and install some heads and test it out. I've already dropped the pan and checked the webs.

I'm planning on getting some plastigauge to test the bearings for clearance on both engines regardless.

One way or the other I'm going to have a turbo in my truck.

When I was loading the 6.5 today the guy asked if I'd be interested in a sm465 with a NP205 attached. I ended up getting that for what I thought was fairly cheap at $145. It has a mechanical bell housing attached as well.

No plans for the 465 yet but I will be looking into adapting the 205 onto a 700R4 automatic. My 700R4 has a 208 attached. That is good enough for me, but if it doesn't look that expensive (or difficult) I may go for adapting the 205 to it.

Turbo and overdrive...woo hoo...

I sure hope the current 6.2 holds up 'til I'm ready to swap another engine in it's place...

It sounds like you have some options Paul. Good idea with the bearings and seals. You will end up with a solid one sooner or later.

You are getting all the good stuff.

I do not have experience going from the DB4 to DB2. However, I do have experience going from long injectors to short injectors on 6.2's. The lines are different. Threads are the same, but the angle of the lines at the injector end is different. I couldn't get them to screw together.

Just a hidden problem that will maybe test your patience I figured you should be aware of.

Thanks Tim.

I dropped the pan after I drained the oil. From what I can see there are no cracks in the block.

I got the intake off and the old pump off today. I got the DB2 bolted in. That's when I noticed there is not a timing mark on the 6.5. I'm assuming the 6.5 uses the computer to time when the pump fires?

I also got all the lines attached to the injectors. They definitely don't just bolt right up without a fight. I doubt I will get the straps attached to the bracket at the valve cover. The intake straps should be no problem though.

Something else I learned today is the GM turbo has an oil line attached to a plate where a 6.2 lift pump would go. If I want to keep a mechanical lift pump (assuming the mechanical lift pump will still work there) I will need to find another place to attach the oil return line.

For testing purposes I will probably just come up with an electric pump. I'd like to hear the engine run and watch what happens when it gets up to temperature.

The oil return could go directly to the side of the oil pan. Get one of those transmission pan drain plug kits B&M sells. Remove the center bolt and run your line to it.

Well I picked up a transmission drain kit this evening but I will likely be bringing it back. It has a 1/4" drain hole in it. From what I have read about return lines I need at least 1/2" return. That 1/4" restriction could cause the seals to blow in the turbo.

Now that I see how they are made though it looks pretty simple. I may try to make my own with pipe fittings. Or I may even get brave and try welding a bung in a spare pan I have.

As much as I hate to admit it I think I have figured out why my welding has gone down hill over the years. I was never a great welder but I could lay a nice looking bead when I tried. The last few years my welds haven't looked that good. What I finally realized is I can't focus my eyes up close any more. I need glasses to read and I need them to weld.

Are you using an auto darkening helmet? I have one but can see better with the full size gold lens


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I have three different helmets actually. I mainly use an auto darkening helmet. I can actually see best using it. The other two are just standard masks. One large window and one small window.

I have the same trouble with all of them though. My eyes just don't focus up close like they used to.

I haven't used a gold lense. What shade darkness is it? I may need to take a trip to the welding supply store?

The gold lens comes in 10-13 if i remember correctly


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