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I got it cut, the parts actually fit together and now it is on the truck for fitting. The student that did the cutting of the 1310 yoke didn't really go in a straight line, so it looks off a little. It isn't off at the ends though. You can also see in the pictures how much further back from stock the T-Case is now.
http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/674...shortshaft.jpg
http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/775...ortshaftan.jpg
Now to make the mounts, make sure it is square and then to figure out the other drive shafts.
Well, after we actually weld this shaft up that is.
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maybe a silly question but, to what points are you measuring to check 'squareness'?
If there is any chance that my frame could be bent or tweaked, where would one measure to/from?
I really don't know if my cement is even 'square' or flat enough and don't have 4 big enough jack stands that are the same to equalize things either..
I'm thinking of using hockey pucks for body bushings so, will that added 'lift' effect linkage/shifting levers to the 205?
In essence, how tight of tolerance does there need to be?
Air-O-space (dial caliper) or caveman (16lb sledge)?
E
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We measured and then centered the front pulley on the engine exactly in the middle. Then we built motor mounts to keep it there.
We measured and then centered the transmission output shaft exactly in the middle of the frame rails. Then we built a mount to keep it there.
I plan to make the 205 input yoke exactly parallel to the transmission output yoke. Then, have the passenger side drop the same as the stock 200.
I am not going to worry about measuring between the frame rails for the tcase. The rear axle was set in with the pinion yoke verticle. The front axle was set up for 7° of Caster if I remember right. I actually think this was posted about earlier in this thread a few years ago.
That answer your question?
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I guess so. I wasn't sure if the 'stock' engine location was EXACTLY centered or off to one side or not..
And these frames were not pampered all that much, so I don't know if I'm dealing with a 'tweaked' frame on mine or not.
The previous owner said that he had all 4 wheels off the ground.. As in jumped it:eek:
E
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We were finally able to get back to work on this project this week. The home made short shaft is now welded and best we can tell exactly square:
http://img861.imageshack.us/img861/9...ortshaftwe.jpg
We also spent the last 3 days getting a broken bolt out of the Getrag output yoke. Now we are back to making the 205 mount exact. Then we get to build some more drive shafts.
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I am still confused on how you mounted the front 60. you didn't use the factory mount because you are outside the frame. so what did you do?
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We used the stock M715 leaf springs and spring mounts. Under the frame. Then, once we got the castor set. We welded on a spring perch for the drivers side and ground the spring perch in the passenger side casing so it was the correct angle.
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We have a student that has completed his welding certification test and wants to do practical welding instead of just test plates. He loves the way the M715 looks and he asked if there was any welding needed to be done on the truck we are building for Sermis. For the past 2 months he has been spending 1 to 1-1/2 hours per day doing something to that truck.
Cutting off the stock t case cross member mounts
welding up the holes made by cutting
fabricating new cross member mounts
making NP205 mounts to fit the cross member
finishing the short shaft
mounting the 205 to the cross member
welding the cross member mounts on
cutting them off and welding them on the right spot
re making his mounts so the 205 is level
clearancing the cab floor so the 205 fits 8" behind where the cab floor has space for it
making a shifter linkage holder to the Gertrag
mounting the parking brake and tcase shifter
making linkages for them
I can't think of anything else right now.
Anyway, here is how the 205 looks in there this morning after we pulled the cab off again:
http://imageshack.us/a/img51/2091/12...asemountal.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img856/644/12...asemountfr.jpg
Here is how the shifter tunnel looks with everything hooked up and how close the brake is to the back of the cab:
http://imageshack.us/a/img694/8364/1...anstunnelm.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img547/5756/1...aseunderca.jpg
The student is now trying to make 5 drive shafts into 2 that will work for the totally different lengths we need. Then I will find something else for him to make.
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Sounds like he is learning some valuable automotive fab skills. some of them the hard way :)
it looks like the drivers side t-case MT could use a gusset to keep it from fatiguing over time.
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So unless I am missing something, a single stick with a t-bar, so either you have 2 high or 4 low?
Scott
