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So it's time for another update.
This is really more for the purpose of asking a question though.
I though I'd be replacing the IP this evening.
My question is should the line going to the IP from the filter be full of fuel at all times?
I pulled the intake and when I disconnected the rubber line of the inlet to the fuel filter it was empty. Only a couple drops of fuel came out. Either my filter is clogged of my lift pump is allowing the fuel to flow backwards?
Anyone have any input?
Still more to add to my escapade.
When I found no fuel in my line from the filter to the pump I decided before I go replacing the IP I'd see if my problem was actually a plugged filter. After all who knows how old that filter is. It came with the engine that had been unused for at least a year. I was planning on replacing it but thought it would work for testing purposes.
I ended up putting the filter from the old engine in and bled the lines. The engine started much easier and soon started running almost smooth. I don't have the intake on yet but after letting the engine run for a couple minutes I turned the cold idle off (it's manually activated with a toggle switch right now) and the engine idled without surging. I turned it off and let it set for around a half hour and tried to start it again. It's about 20 degrees here and with about 10 seconds of glow plugs the engine fired right up.
I will be testing it again in the morning before work. If it fires up easily I will be picking up a new rectangular filter on my way home from work. I was using a screw on cannister filter on my old engine but want to convert to the rectangular filter to save engine compartment space. The rectangular filter mounts in otherwise unused space anyways.
Also another problem I need to address is the starter is dragging on the flywheel during startup. I guess I'll be picking up some shims too.
Sounds like you may have found it.
I mis-type before. Meant to say pressurizing the crank case. A pressurized cooling system would be a symptom of a head gasket leak
Yes, the line into the IP should be full of fuel and pressurized if the engine was just turned off. As in fuel squirts out when you loosen the clamp. It sounds like you not only don't have enough fuel going in, you also have air going in.
When you wrote "running rich." Did you mean black smoke or that slimy hazy bluish smoke? I think your trouble probably is a steady fuel supply, but the black smoke is too much unburnt fuel and the bluish smoke is fuel being pumped through the engine and not even having a chance to burn because the cylinders are too cold.
Thanks Tim.
When I say running way rich I mean my eyes were burning from the exhaust. It wasn't black and it wasn't really blueish. I'm going to call it blueish though because it was definitely not black.
I'm wondering if my compression may be a bit low due to the engine sitting for a long time unused. Low compression could lead to blue smoke?
I want to take it out and run it but want to make sure it will get me home before I wander too far. I'm hoping that after getting the 4 ping glow plug relay wired and a new fuel filter I'll be ready to give it a good run to see if the exhaust clears up and the engine runs smooth.
I pulled the starter today. The Jasper engine came with a gear reduction starter. It had been dragging while starting the truck. I had another gear reduction starter that had the wrong nose piece and wouldn't bolt in. I swapped the nose pieces so I could bolt that starter on.
I figured out why the Jasper engine was running so bad. I decided to replace the lift pump because the line was empty from my fuel filter to the IP. When I went to remove the lift pump I found the hose clamp on the rubber line wasn't tight. My lift pump was sucking air. I tightened the hose clamp and tested my newly swapped starter.
The engine fired up and started getting smooth within a few seconds. The starter did drag a bit still though. I'll be swapping in the direct drive starter to see if that one drags tomorrow.
I let it get up to temperature and it was still blowing smoke. It did idle fairly well though.
The big disappointment for me is the oil pressure drops to almost 0 now when the engine gets warmed up. I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge I will be installing to verify my electric gauge is functioning properly. I'm hoping it's just a problem with my gauge. The engine had 50 psi at cold start on the test stand before it was installed. That was measured using the mechanical gauge. Now it only has around 30 at cold start using the electric gauge. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
I can't believe all the trouble you are having with getting a running 6.2.
Does your starter say "NO SHIM" on the nose cone? If not, it might need a shim or two. Buy a pack of them for about $100. Loosen both starter bolts and only pull the outside one. Slide a single shim in, test it and add or remove as you think it needs. Yes, you could pull the starter, remove the solenoid, bolt the starter back up, move the pinion gear out to the ring gear and then measure the gap.
I haven't been getting a lot done on anything because of the weather.
I don't see no shim anywhere on my starter. It doesn't seem to rub/drag nearly as bad anymore. I may let it be for a while to see if gets any better. It's really just barely noticeable after replacing the nose cone. I may try putting the direct drive starter in this weekend though.
I'm almost ready to take a road trip to get the engine good and warmed up but now I discovered I have no brake lights. I do have working 4-way flashers though so I know the bulbs and grounds are good. All lights were working before the engine was swapped.
I have an electric trailer brake controller wired up on my truck and I notice when I push the brake pedal that the light on the brake controller does light up. I am pretty sure my brake switch is good. I am using a CJ style brake light switch I installed to work off the brake pedal. I'll be checking voltage on wire number 75 to make sure I am getting voltage coming into the switch. I can then determine if I have voltage going out on 75a.
None of that wiring should have been touched while swapping the engine so I'm a little confused why my brake lights aren't working.
I've also been doing a little reading on some diesel forums. I'm still planning on installing my mechanical gauge to compare to the electric. Just haven't gotten around to it yet. It seems there are plenty of posts by people with the same problem I'm seeing. The oil pressure is ok when the engine is cold but drops when the engine gets warm.
Just a quick update to help me keep track of this project.
I had some time this afternoon to look into my brake light issue.
I had voltage on wire 75 so I tested my switch. It was intermittent. I then jumpered the brake light wires together and walked back to see if I had brake lights. I did not. While I was walking back to the cab I heard the circuit breaker pop in the three lever switch. I removed the jumper and heard the breaker reset. Hmmm... The only thing left that I could think to try was to disconnect my electric trailer brake controller.
That was it. My trailer brake controller was shorting out the circuit. I'm thinking it must just be a coincidence that it went bad around the same time the engine got swapped.
Oh well, at least I know what it is and it's an easy fix.
I installed a new brake light switch and left the trailer brake controller disconnected. I will add a fuse to that when I replace it.
My son took me for a ride around the block tonight to test everything out.
The smoke cleared up after about a mile. Oil pressure is good while the engine is making rpm's but still drops pretty low when we are idling at stop signs.
The other thing I'm noticing is the transfer case levers are riding further back than they used to. The transfer case actually engaged by itself when we were accelerating one time. And I hear a noise that sounds like a faint gear clicking as if the shift lever is constantly trying to engage the transfer case.
I finally took the time to pull the oil pressure sending unit and install my manual oil pressure gauge.
We went for a ride before I replaced the gauge and I was dropping to almost 0 on my electric gauge when the engine was warmed up and idling.
I took a ride after the gauge was replaced and was seeing 12psi at idle and up to temp. That's not good but certainly better than 0.
I have been doing a bunch of reading about causes for low oil pressure in a 6.2. Aside from the obvious of worn bearings it could also be the pressure relief valve or even a worn oil pump.
I'm planning on driving the Jasper until it pukes which I hope will take a long time but I am going to try and replace the bearings of my old 6.2 to see if I can get some good oil pressure on that. That is assuming the rod knock didn't destroy the crank or the rod.