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I went ahead and pulled the valve covers on the 6.2 I put in the M715. Of course, that means pulling the intake and injector lines. Depending on what year you look up, there is no valve cover gasket. Just silicone. I ended up with no oil leaks and only 2 or 3 injector line leaks. I was pleased with that. A crow foot socket and a very long extension from the back of the valley got those bottom two injector lines at the pump to stop leaking.
I did a rear main seal while I had the engine out as well. I think it was worth my time and effort.
The 1988 Chevy glow plug controller/relay is what I have on my M715 and what I converted the Bomber over to. I love it. 4 wires, super easy and it works every time without me thinking it through. I think I did a big write up about them either in my conversion thread or another with part numbers and such. I picked up a used controller on Ebay last week for $20 to my door for a spare.
What color smoke, blue or black? Black is fuel and should go away after the first blast of the engine running. Blue could stick around for hours. It could be oil or non burned fuel. RED, Colton's M1009 has always blown blue on start up and stayed blowing some blue all the time hot or cold out. We put new glow plugs in a few weeks ago and haven't seen any smoke of any color at any time since. It starts in less than a second hot or cold every time now too.
Did you run a fuel return line for your test? If not, that would make it blow black and not run very good or very long.
I hated the V belts for the last 2 or 3 years. Now that I have new Gates belts on every truck and a spare set of Gates belts in each truck. I am ok with them. Every few months I tighten them up as a matter of course and still get a squeal. I treat it as a good time to look everything over. Nothing but Gates has lasted more than 4 months for me. The serpentine is a much better system.
I have to push the CO2 air system instead of OBA. I have done both and like CO2 by far better.
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Thanks Tim.
Yes I remember reading about your glow plug write up but don't remember seeing a diagram that showed how it was wired up.
To be honest I've not searched anywhere to see how easy the information is to find about the 4 wire relay. I have several of those relays now but only one plug that will fit it.
Now just seems like a good time to incorporate that into my truck.
I know I should do the valve covers and oil pan at least. I really do want to but it is just too cold here in my garage this time of year. I don't really have anywhere to paint the stuff right now.
I'd call the smoke I'm getting more white than blue. I put a jerry can of diesel below the lift pump and ran the return line back to the jerry can while I ran it on the stand.
My current engine that I'm replacing blows the same color smoke when it's cold but clears up as it warms up. It had new glow plugs last winter/spring. It didn't smoke at all really this past summer but is smoking pretty good now when I can get it started. I'm planning on re-using the glow plugs from the current engine in the replacement.
I only have one battery in the truck and when it gets too cold it doesn't have enough oomph to run the glow plugs and then crank the engine. I need to jump it and also use my big booster/charger to give it enough juice to fire off.
The Jasper engine came with the gear reduction starter. I was able to start it on the stand with just my M715 battery. It is a 1000cca battery.
I read your co2 write up too. I actually looked around on Craigslist here for a while to see if I could find a tank on the cheap but never followed through with doing the co2. I have an air horn on my M715 and decided the onboard air would be easier to use for that anyway.
I've been kicking around the idea of doing an electric air compressor that can run off the 3 phase AC power coming out of my weldernator. I can tap the AC before it hits my external rectifier and use that but haven't verified yet what frequency I'm actually making at what rpm.
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Just found this. Does this look right for the 4 pin glow plug relay?
http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/2591/lj77.jpg
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Yes, that is the wiring.
B-starter solenoid hot when starting
C-Indicator light
D-12V on with switch
E- ground
The factory mounted them on the drivers side head at the rear in the valley. Basically, that water port which is blocked off had studs instead of bolts and the relay goes on those studs.
It is supposed to not turn on the glow plugs below 124˚ or so coolant temperature. Since it doesn't touch the coolant, they have it set lower. My M715 unit is on the engine as described above. It comes on anytime a warmed up engine has been off more than 30 minutes and it is at least 60˚ outside. I have it mounted to the inner fender on the Bomber. It comes on every single time the engine is started no matter how long it has been off unless it is over 85˚ outside . Both start every time in less than a second of cranking hot or cold.
I am really liking the CO2 more and more. I have the fixed 150 psi regulator, bought a hose from power tank, and still haven't run my first 20 pound tank dry. I used it yesterday on my trailer tires and a K5 I picked up for my class and today to run an impact while doing some porch repairs around the house. I probably would have been just fine with the much easier to mount and carry around 15 pound bottle and if kept to just tires off road, a 10 pounder. 20 pounds is the only size my local gas company keeps in stock though so that is what I have.
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Well a quick update on where this is now.
I put an ad on Craigslist looking for someone to swap my bad 6.2 for my Jasper 6.2. I had someone in a shop offer to do it for me pretty cheap. I basically just had him do the heavy lifting part of it. I removed the front clip to make it easy for him.
I dropped the truck off to him last Saturday and picked it up on Friday. He would have had it done in a day but I told him I couldn't get back to pick it up until Friday anyway.
He noticed some differences in the engines during the swap so he looked up the block casting number. It turns out the engine should be a 6.5.
The casting number is 12552929. The date code looks like C132. From what I can find on-line this is a naturally aspirated 6.5 built March 13, 1992.
I have mixed feeling about this. On the one hand it may be nice to have a few more horse power. On the other hand I will likely just burn more fuel and not see much advantage of more horse power. The worn out 6.2 moved the truck just fine when it was in there.
I'm really thinking hard now about adding a turbo. I really liked the 6.2 but now I'm wondering if I'd like the 6.5 with a turbo even better...?
I've got the truck back in my garage and am starting to put it back together. I was planning on swapping the oil pan because the 6.2 had a painted pan that matched the truck. When I went to put it on the new engine I noticed the pans are different. Turns out the newer engine has a one piece rear main seal and uses a pan with a bigger radius in the back. My old pan was too small.
I guess I'll be painting some engine stuff this spring when it is warm enough.
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The plot thickens. I'm not really sure what engine I have now. According to the plaque my son found on the engine it is a 6.2.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...0/600/zyiz.jpg
Anyone know how to tell the difference between a 6.2 and a 6.5 without pulling the heads?
From what I can find (not to say my search skills are good) the casting number is 6.5 only. Would Jasper have resleeved the engine and made it a 6.2?
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Well I've been out braving the cold and finally got the Jasper engine fired up in the M715.
I did a test start on the engine stand when I first got it so I knew it ran. What I didn't do is run it up to temperature to be sure it ran good. It doesn't...
So I'm pretty disappointed right now.
I have great oil pressure when the engine is cold. But when the engine gets up to temperature it drops to a little less than 10 at idle. It also seems to surge while it sits and idles. If left unattended it will sometimes die while it surges then winds down.
My eyes are burning as I type this. If it were a gasoline engine I would say it's running way rich.
The previous owner did tell me the engine sat for a year before I bought it. I figured it would need to get used a while to get it running good but this one just doesn't seem to run that good at any RMP. It starts super hard and never really runs smooth for very long.
I'm planning on swapping the injection pump from my other engine to see if some of the symptoms are caused by this pump. When I save up enough money I will be rebuilding both the IP and my other engine.
I love the diesel in the truck but am tired of nursing along a worn out engine.
Anyone have any thoughts as to why my diesel might be running rough?
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Hey Paul. I would make sure that the blow by is not pressurizing the cooling system. If that is good, then I would be looking at injectors or pump. If it starts fairly easy, I would look at the injectors. You can try cracking open each line at the injector. If they get worse, that injector is probably not the problem. When you get to the one that doesn't change the idle, that could be the culprit.
I am no diesel expert, that is why I haven't chimed in too much. But hopefully this will help.
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Thanks George. Maybe a silly question to those who know but how can I tell if blow by is pressurizing the cooling system and not the water pump? Will I see smoke coming out of the radiator or will the coolant get discolored?
Another thing I forgot to mention is a couple times yesterday while it was taking a long to to start when it finally did start I could hold my foot to the floor and the engine wouldn't rev up for a while. That's what makes me suspect the IP is not working properly.
