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I know this might sound like a dumb question, but you did put the clutch disc in the right way didn't you?
If its in backward it will never release.
Also, check the pilot bushing/bearing. If it is too tight or locked, the clutch won't release either.
Did you adjust in some free play between the disc and throw out bearing? You need to have a little, and a return spring to pull the throw out bearing away from the disc.?
Clutch disk is in the right way. Double checked when I tore it apart.
Pilot fits fine and throwout is moving fine.
It has got to be a travel issue - even though it appears that the arm is moving far enough. I would think that if there was air in the system it would travel until it had a lot of pressure then the air would compress rather than move the arm any farther.
Just my theory. Need to find a way to pressure bleed it backwards into the master. Think the bleeder tool I borrowed from a buddy can do that. Need to look at it again.
You should be able to figure out how much travel you need when you look at the throw out bearing movement front to back. PLay with the clutch fork on the bearing so you have an idea as to how much throw you need. The hydraulic slave will push as far as you can compress the rod into the slave. You may have a bad master or slave too. Once it is bled properly it is very firm and positive clutch pedal to slave throw. You will probably have to adjust your rod from your slave to the clutch fork to get things to work correctly. I also built in an adjustment for how much fluid my clutch pedal rod to master cylinder as well. Two adjustments was better than one for me.
are all of your parts from a matched source?
i used a Gm slave master and clutch fork all designed for one another, and all i had to do was plug it in and go. outside of modifying the pedal to master rod length and making sure it had adequate throw it was pretty much a no brainer.
if you are trying to bleed it, i know the procedure for the GM set up i use is to completely unbolt the slave and push the piston in 5mm over and over. it works pretty well. not sure if that fits your application though
Ryan
Now I am sure its not an issue with the slave/master. :mad:
I manually pulled the arm and the clutch will not disengage. I can peak in and the pressure plate springs are being compressed - the friction disc wont release. I just can't figure out why. The clutch disc, pp, throwout and pilot were all from a matched kit.
Anyone want a T98/18 hybrid with AMC bellhousing??? Wishing I went with an auto right now.
The slave cylinder isn't pushing the diaphragm fingers in too far is it? So far that they are grabbing the center of the clutch disc?
Just a thought. Or is it possible you got a bad clutch pressure plate. I had one in a Chevy 1/2 ton once that did a similar thing and it was a defect in the pressure plate. Brand new at that.
Try cranking it in 4th gear with the clutch pedal pushed in, e-brake on, or maybe chained to tree or something -- just to see if you have any slippage at all.
This could confirm what Randy is talking about.
Sounds like you pushed things too far inwards. Is it a 3 finger clutch or Multiple fingers? 3 fingered clutches are problematic.
Its the 3 finger style. I have run out of explainations at this point. Only thing I can think is that some/all of the parts are defective.
May have to pony up and get a different brand from a different place and see if that solves it.
REALLY not looking forward to pulling the trans AGAIN :hairpull:
Anyone wanna come help this weekend? wink wink