If you're on Instagram, you can find me at #mike.oneill.5667. I usually post progress updates every two weeks or so. I'm going to school full-time now, so my time is limited.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaiserjeeps
Printable View
If you're on Instagram, you can find me at #mike.oneill.5667. I usually post progress updates every two weeks or so. I'm going to school full-time now, so my time is limited.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaiserjeeps
I still need the flat head screw for the door frame upper seal. It anyone has one.
It has been 11 to 13 degrees every morning. Soon there will be snow up to my waist. I have someone coming to look at my home thanksgiving week. I want to leave here.
I reworked the rear springs. I had a torn off spring clip. I straightened what was there and welded a new piece on it.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
The fix
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
Then it took no less than 10 hours to sand or bead blast the leafs. They were really rusty and dirty. Only 3 of each spring pack fit inside the bead blasting cabinet. This was tedious.
But I got them all really clean and sanded off the sharp edges on the ends that were stamping curls and cutting in the neighboring leafs. Then like member Fisherman I coated the contact patterns with slip plate number 1. This will improve the ride by 100%.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
It is messy and slippery. I was trying to wipe the edges for nice paint work later It was not the way to go. I found a quick pass with the sander and a fast wipe with naptha was quicker after it was all dry.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
I had to make 6 new spring clip spacers as mine were completely rotted. I used aluminum as I had some old winch tie rods that were perfect. Then painted them with Gillespie.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
Got the motor loaded up and in. Same with the gearboxes. The bed is on and fuel and brake lines are in. It is starting to look as I imagined.
I only had one bed frame pad. I had some rubber and made two new ones.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
The Jeep J truck buick 350 bellhousing. About a mile long.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
My International divorced NP205. The mounts I had to make to hang it in the truck.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
I have been using a marine sealant on everything. Mercruiser perfect seal. On the bolts on the back of the trans that tend to leak, these upper flange head bolts as they have contact with gear oil. The perfect seal seems to work well.
More later.
What cant you do?
Great work...as usual!
Well since you asked... I sure can't remember much anymore despite trying. I put the OEM sloped transfer case strap mount and angle on backwards. I was supposed to have the slope to the back and the angle and shim was supposed to be behind the mounting plate, not on the outside of it. Thankfully I took a lot of pictures making everything. I am a lousy cook too. I'm sure there is a lot more depending on who you ask. :rolleyes:
One part at a time. This is totally the fun part. Got a call from Gonz. It was so great to hear from him. He has the screws and as a bonus the seals I was looking for. Another outstanding helpful member. Thank you Gonz!! I have been running to town to get bolts. I wish I could find black bolts and screws that did not rust so readily. Oh well, it is a restomod. I was going to land the cab and lifted it up to do so. Got disgusted with the lousy paint under there. I ended up putting on some rust seal, new seam sealer and tan paint. At this point this is all corrosion protection. I am really grateful to Glenn for setting me up with this cab. It is in superb shape.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
Anything I can install I am. I need to make room and get after the unpainted body parts. I still have tables covered in parts.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
Crap, it is snowing. Funny I am working on the heater rebuild. But previously I got the fuel tanks ready to land. I had to make a fuel pick up for the front El Camino tank, and a return port for the rear 41-48 Chevy extended range tank. These tanks were bought from Tanks Inc. I looked at every tank they made and these fit the best. I am using weather Pack connectors on this truck. They are sealed and reliable.
Ready to install. And they are in. Fuel fillers and everything. I followed up with the already built complete dual exhaust system. All is done. This is great.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
The pick up and return. Stainless Steel...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
And new gaskets on the entire heater. The blend door too. All the correct size adhesive backed foam can be bought at Mc Master Carr in 12 x 12 sheets. I had patterns from my 70 wagoneer rebuild. Go figure I have 3 OEM full size jeep correct heater cores, they all have a leak. I sure would like to figure out how to fix a heater core. The replacements are 1/2 thinner and you need to modify the hold down straps to keep them in place. I am waiting for the new heater core to show up to finish this rebuild. Then on the truck it goes. FYI, the later 80's wagoneer heater motors are faster and the fan is much bigger than the late 60's or early 70's heater motors. These have a fiberglass case with a metal flanged motor. They MOVE air.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
Gonz sent me a great care package. The screws for the door frame and seals I was needing. Outstanding... Thank you Gonz. Very grateful.
I don't like it when I buy something then hide it from myself. I bought some 1/2 long bolts to make new pins for the tailgate hinges. I needed one more so I bought 5 and hid them. But they will turn up. I discovered the hinges were extremely loose. The pins are .425 in diameter. Taking a long shank 1/2 inch bolt and turning the head down and cutting it for length makes a new pin that measures .493. I chased the holes with the right drill bit and they are once again a nice fit. I did not need to remove much from the holes. It worked great. I still need cotter pin holes. I will get to that.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
Installed for a fit test.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
I have been putting stuff on the truck. Hood hinges, brackets etc. This is a wagoneer defroster and floor unit with the vacuum cans removed. It was simple to make metal flags to hold a cable control system. I had custom decals made to surround the push pull knobs that will reside in the bottom of the dash. That will get done later. The defroster fittings are ford mustang. I had to modify them by adding a short flag on one end to reach the mounting stud, and cut out a big notch for the headlight switch. I glued in a piece of ABS sewer pipe with ABS glue. It worked great as the fittings were ABS.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
The dash is on.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
Some neighbors came over and helped me put the roof top tent on the rack. I have some tubing clamps coming to get it mounted down with a solid mount that will be off-road capable.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds
This part of a build is always fun.
I have some good progress to post. But I am a little behind and trying to catch up with home stuff. Jon I forgot to take the big blueprint of the heater to town. I will go back.
Here is something I am wondering about. My non m715 jerry can holder hits the OEM fuel filler. By quite a bit. Are the M715 jerry can holders made differently? Am I just not pushing it in place hard enough? Have a look...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
Does anyone have a picture of an original can holder? Is it thicker than this very thin tin thing?
I'm at work, but I started looking through the M715 library above at photos. If I remember correctly, the original gas carriers were thinner and lighter metal, and there was a discussion that involved Mr. Barrman. I would assume the Feds made sure aftermarket carriers were thicker metal since they're carrying explosives. Or they made sure it wouldn't fit off the shelf (snicker).
I think that discussion happened at the 2008 FE Mark. I have a civilian Jerry can mount on one side of my truck and a 20 year old military issue mount on the other side. Someone noticed the difference in thickness. The civilian is thinner in my case.
My 1953 REO Gasser M35 had a mount on it that was just as thick as my current military issue one for reference.
Well one thing that comes to mind is the offroad jostling I am sure to have. And the weight of a gas can breaking that weak civi one I have. It is very thin and hardly up to the task. It does not even look to be 19 GA. I could make one. It would probably burn up a week. Does anyone have one they could sell me for this project? A quick pass through the bead blaster and a coat of paint and I'd be set.
I thought I had everything. This is bound to happen. Most grateful for the replies guys. Thank you.
Do any of you guys have a set of calipers? And could you measure how thick the metal is? That would tell me if I should be looking for another thicker one. If the MV ones are indeed thicker...
Thank you ahead of time.
Never mind... I in a glimpse of pure something that I am not sure of, I remembered I had two can holders in the back of my M101 trailer. Sure enough, they are probably double the thickness. And this problem is solved...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
I will measure in daylight tomorrow. You want mm or inches?
My battery for the micrometer was dead this morning. I have to run errands and will pick up a new one. Report back later.
My truck still has it's original gerry can holder that I can measure for you if Barrman hasn't already,
I have another gerry can holder that I was told, came off of an armored vehicle which is significantly heavier steel.
It will be Saturday before I get a chance again. Sorry.
I got it solved guys. The M101 trailer had two in the back just inside the tailgate. Right behind the wheel houses. They are indeed thicker that the super thin red ones I have. I think I will just remove one of them and shot blast it and paint it tan. I suppose now the question would be " did the M101 trailers have these can holders from the factory" or did someone add them? I don't mind taking one out... I sure appreciate the replies though. You guys are sure helpful.
I had a look at a newer Jeep with a gas can holder on it. It had a fairly open holder with straps and a locking upper strap. It was heavier than I figured it would be. It was kind of cool. One of these.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/14537642555...Cclp%3A4429486
I want the traditional can holder though. I have two sets of locking straps for the OEM holder. Time to stir the paint.
I wanted to do a big update this morning. I have installed just about every cleaned and painted part I had waiting. Lots of pictures to post. But it appears I have misplaced my camera. So much fun...
:popcorn2:
Gas fired heater blueprint and related documentation sent yesterday Jon. PM sent with tracking.
I can't find my camera. It was a nikon I bought for Liz. It has valuable pictures on it. Bummed..
Still looking for my camera. I took some photos off my phone and resized for this forum. A regular PITA and I probably will need to get another camera going. I have the truck where it sits in the pictures. I am needing to clean and paint the steering column, and remaining body parts. The parts piles are getting smaller. I have a wagoneer interior to complete before I get back on this project. I just want it done.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
The heater with all the best parts put in a FSJ. The biggest fan and opened up heater box.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
Anyway. More later as I get it done.
Is it too early to call shotgun???
How bout I take a week off, fly out there and put in some sweat equity...maybe that would help get that shotgun ride....
Looking good!
Wow, just wow. Drooling all over my screen.
Super great to hear from you Glenn! And thank you for the cab swap. It would not be this nice without that. And Jon you always have a shotgun seat here. I will have to take the top off for you. I raised the passenger seat for Becky so she could see out. LOL Think harry and the Hendersons.. Ha
So I have not had a lot of time to spend on the truck lately. I have a complete interior to make for a 66 wagoneer in Utah. Door panels, rear panels and a headliner. All in crisp marlin blue. I did however get to my data plates. And using the great tip from Jeepdan I had total success. Thank you Jeepdan for the pointers. It worked.
Taped in place as recommended. Sure enough the plates drift all over the place. This worked very well.
A word of warning. I used a countersink bit in the drill press. I got into the mounting plate just a tad when removing the old rivets. I had to peen the rivets even further with a ball peen hammer to tighten them up at the end of my process. So go easy on the rivet removal. I landed the rivets with the entire plate on top of a blue shop rag. No rivet damage at all.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
Looks great.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
This looks even better.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
My gauge panel. I need to paint the covers still. These will be turn signals that are green and the lower one is red for high beams. Very small and not very visible. My excuse for driving for miles with my turn signal on. :D
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
I am going to wire all the gauges into a weather pak connector. To be able to remove it intact and quickly. I will still have the speedometer cable, coolant tube and oil pressure line. But it will come out pretty fast this way. Funny I accidentally stumbled on to the pictures of when I wired Fishermans gauge panel about 15 years ago. I am doing mine a little different though as a plug in for the electrical. That was my plan so far. That may change though.
Glenn, did you ever break ground on a shop? 2024 is a great year to put up a shop. I will volunteer time for wiring, floor anchors, helping any way I can. But I plan on selling and moving soon. If I am here I will help if you need it.
Im honored Al...it would be a real treat!Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaiserjeeps
Looks super sharp like always!!
All done with your help too. Many thanks to you and Glenn for helping me along. Now if I could just get it done.Quote:
Originally Posted by gonz
Finally getting some shop time in. I usually have lots of time in the winter to do this stuff. I have trying to build an interior kit for a 66 wagoneer based in Utah. And I am kind of held up so I spent some time sanding the fender skirts to get them painted. I need warmer weather for all of it. I hit 31 below zero and it had been below zero or right at it for about two weeks now. It is warming up some. This is a wagoneer fender skirt with a M715 tail piece welded to it. The original M715 one was to rusty and I had this one handy. The M715 tail piece is different than the civi one so I switched them. I spent a whole day sanding this. It had more green paint runs than ever. Crazy bad work. Now I am treating it with SEM rust converter. Another sand down then seam sealer on the seam on both sides then paint goes on. I hope the remaining body parts clean up quicker than these.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
All the black is rust and it is getting sealed in.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
I hope to have paint on these and a whole bunch of other parts waiting very soon. It is a task to get the shop warm enough despite being fully insulated. This paint likes heat to set it.
Wow, that is some cold weather!
Do you find that paint is very tough to sand off?
I am stripping the doors and hood on mine, and it’s taking forever.
I tried paint stripper. It took the red from the FD off, but only softens the top layer of paint
Yeah...that is cold!!! We have barely slipped below -10 this winter...
Stay warm Al...we need you!!
Yes Flingarrows this is the toughest paint I have ever sanded. No kidding, two days to sand both fender skirts. So why does my new tan paint chip so easily? I have been wondering. And I have you beat on temps Jon. The lowest I have ever seen here was 36 below zero. I was 5 degrees shy this time. It is hard to heat the home with that. I am not looking forward to my power bill. The furnace kept coming on despite a hot hard running woodstove.
It warmed up to 32 today and rain. It was raining at 19 degrees two days ago. Never seen anything like it. So I watched a superb church service online this morning then decided to go out and work on the skirts. I ended up with a quick sand to smooth the rust sealer and put seam sealer on the seams. I got a wild hair and fired off 4 heaters to warm the shop to paint. I got the plastic booth to 68 and went for it. Glad I did it. The fender skirts look way better than I thought they would. Got a shovel painted, steering column, gas can hold down straps, trans boot ring, headlight rings, rear view mirror, etc. I need to not touch it for a few days now. Anyway some pictures.
Seam sealer to stop rust. I soaked SEM rust sealer in there just in case.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
And the rest of the parts. I have a few black things left to do yet.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
Getting there.
Well I got the grill guard painted. It took a full day of straightening with a bearing press and various straight edges to get it looking good again. I had one cracked weld to fix and a few dents to fill. Got that done after another full day of sanding it. I painted it yesterday after running the heat in the shop full bore for hours before spraying. I also painted the inner front radiator support. Another sanding joy there. This paint is really something. I put the steering column together and got it installed. I have steering now. I used civi parts on the steering wheel and I think it looks great. For a modified restomod anyway.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
I punched holes for new neoprene seals.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
Nothing is cleaned up yet. I was just fitting to make sure it all fit. The horn components are missing out of my column.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
Onward
Looking good. That looks like a lot of work to strip the grill guard
It was. My hands are very sore from sanding. But it looks good. Not perfect but it looks good. It will be a woods rig. It won't take long before those little imperfections will be lost in the fray.
So I started on the top frame. Jiminy freaking Christmas there are some holes in it. From a hard top I am sure. Maybe three different hard tops. I have roughly 28 rivet holes per side. Nuts ... I am welding them up and cleaning them up for paint. I bet it whistled in the wind on the freeway.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
One side all fixed. I am going to pull all the snaps off for paint. The screws are stuck. I sheared the tip of an impact driver. Crazy the cheap crap from china we have now. I have all new black snaps to put back. And I have two new black tops to pick from. It is going to be sharp as heck. I will probably attempt to make a complete top frame set some day. It does not look to difficult. Anyway..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds
More later.
36 rivet holes in the rear bow alone. Somebody shoot me.
Wow!