M715 project underway 305 chevy with 200-4R auto

Prefab exhaust parts? 1985 6.2 K5 Blazer exhaust pipes will bolt right up to the manifolds and once you cut holes in both sides of the transmission cross member. You will have dual pipes going back to about the transfer case. Buy them for a 1985 K30 and you will have enough pipe to go all the way under the bed and into the fuel tank on the drivers side.

The only problem is the parts are made by Walker and neither NAPA nor O'reilly's can get them in stock. At least not around here. I went to a custom exhaust shop Friday with one of my 6.2 manifolds and had them make flares for the manifold ends, put collars on and a 90 bend in one with a 45 bend in the other. I will cut, weld, bend and make things work as best I can once back in school next week.

My original plan was to bring it in and have an exhaust made for it.

Then I had a few opportunities to buy some other goodies for the truck like tires and soft top. That pretty much depleted my project fund at the moment.

I thought about cutting the transmission brace and routing through it but decided I'd try and route around it first. It is a very tight fit but I managed to squeeze the pipes around the brace without hitting anything. I don't know if I will be able to install a joint to the PTO now or not. The exhaust on the drivers side is looking like a PTO winch may be a no go.

Thanks Tim, Rockauto had the pipes for a K5. They only have 3 of the left side remaining. Total for the pipes and 2 rings was $127 including shipping.

Glad you found them. I spent $68 cash at a small town 1 man shop. But, will spend about the same as you once I get both sides under the passenger side of the bed. I haven't priced mufflers or tail pipes yet. I am out of money in my truck fund for the month.

Well I've been running on one battery since I put the 6.2 in.

On Sunday we took a ride in the evening. We needed the head lights on because it was dark. When we got home we parked it in the driveway to check for leaks and such. When I tried to re-start it to move it into the garage the battery was too dead to start the engine.

Turns out my alternator has failed. I was running on battery the whole drive.

Now I could just rebuild the alternator I have. I have the tools and know how to do it, but I'm thinking it is a good time to do an upgrade.

I used to have a separate on-board alternator/welder on my CJ. I modified a 100 a Delco and removed the internal voltage regulator. I wired the field input to a toggle switch in the dash. I could control the output of the alternator by the throttle speed.

I think I am going to add the welding capability to my M715.

My truck has the serpentine belt system on it. It also has a CS-130 alternator. The alternator is probably capable of welding with the proper modifications but I want more juice. I am looking for a CS-144 which is 140 amps. The case is slightly larger but it should be a bolt in upgrade.

So now I have to locate the correct alternator. My question is does anyone know what vehicles came with the high output CS-144? My mounting holes need to be 6 o'clock-10 o'clock drivers side mounted. Or Maybe it's called 6 o'clock-2 o'clock.

I'm also experimenting with modifying an old Motorcraft 1G. It looks like it will be able to be mounted and line up quite easily with a custom bracket to the top mounting hole. I've already modified the alternator to accept the pulley from my Delco. I've also modified the bottom (6 o'clock) hole to mount in my existing bracket.

The thing about the Motorcraft alternator is it's actually a slight downgrade in power output. At this point it's becoming more of a "I want to try it just because I can" thing.

1990's caddys Chevy Caprices, would have that alt, not sure on the bolt positions though. You are better off buying an alternator from one of the alternator shops selling on ebay that rebuild and rewind the alts with heavier wiring for greater amperage. I bought a 3G Ford alternator that puts out 200 amps for 97.00 a few years ago for my 351 Cleveland in my M715. I also have a CS-144 that was rewound to put out 190 amps that I converted to a welder for the M715 as well. It is always good to keep these separate and not use one alternator to do both as it may leave you stranded somewhere.

A great source of high output alts in the junkyard are old police cars and ambulances, since they use a lot of power.

Thanks for the info.

I think this is the one I need.

The Caddy and Caprice both use a 6 o'clock 12 o'clock mounting.

I think the Chevy truck CS-144 is only rated at 124 amp. But I can buy the 200 or 250 amp stator and convert it so I think that will be okay.

I did end up with a 124 amp alternator yesterday. I scored a used one for $30. I installed it as is but haven't checked to see if it is actually putting any voltage out yet. It was almost a bolt in replacement. I had to make a new bracket for the top mount hole and I also had to remove the bracket that held the rear of the old CS130.

I am planning on putting this in when this my alternator fails.

I'm also going to put a slightly smaller "overdrive" 1 7/8" pulley.

I have been driving my truck every chance I get recently.

I have a couple observations and a question.

The first observation is that no one around here will tolerate me driving less than 55 on the back country roads where I live. People tailgate closely until they have an opportunity to pass.

The other observation in most people that smile and wave at me while I drive my M715 around here are driving 4x4's.

I've put a few miles on it now and have also noticed my temperature gauge is creeping higher and higher.

Yesterday I picked up my son from school and we went on some errands. Later we met my wife for dinner. On the way home we took the long way and found some places to test out the 4 wheel drive. I watched the gauge hover around 220+ or so most of the time.

When I first started driving this combo it was staying right around 200-205.

Last night before I got home it was closer to 230. The thing is when I feel the cross over pipe that returns the water to the radiator it doesn't seem that hot.

Today I took it for a short run and it shot up to about 230 and stayed there.

While I was out yesterday I bought a new thermostat and idler/tensioner pulley.

I put them on today and took it for another spin. It went up to about 225 pretty quick and stayed there.

With a new 195 degree thermostat I'd expect the gauge to show about 200 like it did before. The anti-freeze looks good and is not low. The fan is spinning while the engine is running and I can feel the draft when I put me hand in front of the radiator.

What could I be missing?

As for the temperature, could the gauge be inaccurate or the sender? How does the engine "smell"? Do you think that it is getting hotter or does it smell OK?

As for those who want to pass you when you are going 55 MPH, it is most likely that they only think that you are going slow because of what you are driving. Let them "have carnal knowledge of themselves"! Enjoy your truck. I only wish I were driving mine right now.