Angry_Truck rebuild update

Hello. Time for an update on the status of my truck.

I just spent the last 2 weeks working on my truck with my dad.
We went from this:
http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/a...mestoMI012.jpg

To this:
http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/a...010pics404.jpg

The entire truck was torn down, sandblasted, yet more rust repaired, and painted (24087 is nice...) during that time. It about killed us and I still have a long way to go before it is on the road but it is good to have a big chunk of the heavy work done.

I took lots of pictures during the process, they are posted here on Shutterfly:
http://angrym715july2010.shutterfly.com/

I also did a couple of before/afters that compare the very beginnings of this project (about 6 years ago) until now:

http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/a...reandafter.jpg

http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/a...reandafter.jpg

Unfortunatly, I wasn't able to assemble all the pieces during the 2 weeks. I am planning on doing that as much as possible next weekend, so I will have more updates then.

Cheers,
Brian (and Angry)

Man, that looks great! And talk about some quick work too. You'll be up and running in no time. Kinda makes me jealous.

I really like how that paint looks. Very nice work.

Great reference pic's for anyones restoration, thanks!

Wholly amazing and great looking to boot!!
Congrats on what you have so far!!

These pic show how to do a restauration in perfection. Congretulation!
Wolf

good work - you've really been hustling!

Nice job on the floors. Looks really good.

Very nice! Great to see one done correctly!

More progress this weekend.

We temporarily bolted most of the painted pieces onto the truck in prep for transporting it again.

Here's how it is now.
http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/a...010pics038.jpg
Still a long way to go before it runs but its nice to see it looking like a real truck for once.

nice job. you are correct when you say it's starting to look like a truck. interior shell turned out awsome. will you be keeping the 230ci tornado motor? my truck retains the original motor and it sure draws alot of attention at the local car shows and cruise nights. good luck and keep up the good work.

Very nice!:applause:

angry
I looked at all 574 pictures repeatedly.
They helped me figure out 1 of the rust damaged pieces I have to replace.
Did you fab up the rear inner corner pieces or did you patch and weld some old ones.
thanks for the help

Thanks for all the complements guys.

jpsnblood-
I think by "rear inner corner pieces" you mean the pieces shown below? I did have fab the passenger side, using the driver's side as a guide.
Here are some pics at the beginning of the fab stage:
http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/a...ate2006054.jpg

http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/a...ate2006054.jpg
I thought I had more pictures of it later in the fab stage but can't find them now. Don't forget to add the weld plate and nut for the seat belt if you plan to use the stock mounting points.

With paint:
http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/a...010pics374.jpg

Sorry, just realized I posted the same pic twice above. I meant to show this one also:
http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/a...ate2006053.jpg

Dang Angry
I think you built more of your truck than Kaiser!
My problem is with the door frame corner.
The corner has rust damage. The outside corner has/had a dent knocking the panel a little out of alignment. And to top it off the door frame to out side corner was not welded together quite right.
The combination of problems makes the rocker panel really tight.
I have a parts truck on the back 40. Going to check for damage on parts truck's corner. if not damaged thinking about cutting out a patch panel.
If you have any ideas let me know.
thanks

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...ecorner004.jpg

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...ecorner005.jpg
pic of panel not assmbled quit right, if i had the room lost by the gap, rocker would fit much better
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...ecorner007.jpg

OK. Sorry, wrong area. Don't worry, as you could guess, my truck was rusty in the are you are talking about too....
However, I think my situation was a little different because my cab corners and that small portion above the rocker panel, between the door and the cab corner were also rusted. Therefore, all of that needed to be fabbed and replaced. That allowed me to make the gaps whatever I needed to match up with the rocker. Anyway, here are some pics.

Driver's side:
http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/a...5/DSC00506.jpg
http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/a...5/DSC00509.jpg


Passenger's side:
(I had to fab that part of the door frame too...)
http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/a...5/DSC01352.jpg
http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/a...5/DSC01390.jpg
http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/a...5/DSC01438.jpg

If you really think the gap is going to be a problem, I would probably make the patch panel. Not too hard to make again, a gentle curve to match up with the outer panel and a flange to weld the outer rocker too. As I remember it was difficult to get into that area to weld the flange to the rocker with plug welds but I managed to glob enough weld around to hold the 2 pieces together.

Hope this helps. If not, let me know if there is something else I can try.

Amazing job on your truck, very nice work on the metal fabrication.

So I am dusting this off after 11 years... I don't know how this stacks up as far as oldest build threads go but here I am again.
Quick recap -
Found the truck in a field in Indiana about 20 years ago. I told my wife I would need about 2 weeks to fix the brakes. I took it all apart, scattered pieces everywhere and spent a few years mostly rebuilding the cab. Then in a flurry of activity prior to kid #2 being born, had the truck blasted, painted it, and then put the pieces together enough that I could move it to my house in the burbs.
10...years...later, kid #2 is well, 10 years old, and I am finding the need to prove to him and his older brother that I can make this thing go.

So I have been collecting bits and pieces and it is time to gather up everything I scattered, all the stuff I collected, buy some new stuff and make it happen.
The first items to tackle are the plumbing (electrical, fuel, brake, venting).
I have a collection of old rusty pipes that I took off and since I knew I would have the thing back together in a few weeks, I didn't really bother taking great notes/tags. (Sometimes I want to punch my former self square in the face...) I think I have figured out for the most part but I am trying to figure out some things for the fuel system.
In this picture from the manuals:
https://i.imgur.com/FFC78jOl.jpg

1. Can somebody tell me what part #6 is made of? Is it plastic tubing?
2. Does anybody know the specs of part 19? Mine is long gone. This seems to be a fuel hose with some flare fittings on each end. Hose diameter? Length?

Thanks a lot for your help everyone. I will need it.

-Brian (and Angry)

I am going to shame myself by answering one of my own questions.
Regarding the fuel line (#19). It is actually not long gone - me from 10+ years ago left it attached to the engine, not the pipes. So when I checked the engine, there it was. I am going to try and make a replacement because this one is in bad shape.
For posterity:
The total straight length is ~6 inches long including the fittings, diameter measures 0.44, which puts it somewhere between 7/16 and 1/2. I assume 1/2 is correct.
https://i.imgur.com/XvTw1Ldl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ZgPVDK2l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Py06iWMl.jpg

All of my fuel lines were 5/16.

Columbus OH?
I'm in Wheeling WV.
You are welcome to visit, and take photos of my truck to refresh your memory.
Mine is restored to original condition.
And, I will take you for a ride.:)
Just send me a Private Message.

Thanks Jeepdan! I'm on the Northwest side of Columbus. I am working on a list of things that I am just not sure how they are supposed to fit/look and I know your truck is an example of how it should be done. We occasionally head towards WV, so I can give you a shout when we are headed that way.

This rebuild is going to be random. I have had to take the approach of "eating the elephant one bite at a time" - the task is so large, I need to work on it a little bit at a time. So that means I am trying to find small tasks that I can work on in the small spare time windows that I have.
While I am trying to get the major electrical and plumbing stuff sorted out and waiting for parts or smarts, I decided to focus on something else super important - the horn button. It's really the last thing I need to worry about but it was on the top of the pile of parts in the bed of the truck, and it fit the "small bite" criteria.
As a recap, this is what the truck looks like ~now. (It has since had the front end torn apart - more later).
https://i.imgur.com/XlRc9Pwl.jpg

I found a replacement steering column a while ago, and the steering wheel was in better shape than the one on the truck but it still had cracks.
https://i.imgur.com/iVPDQFBl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6gMhDn7l.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/DcrDpPLl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/wtbfsr5l.jpg

Those were filled with JB Weld and Sanded/Paint/Sand/Paint.... It was then painted with Red Oxide primer and then 24087.
https://i.imgur.com/qszUV7ql.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/1zD6uC5l.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/yZdZaoml.jpg

Part 2:

The all-important horn button was in rough shape. The stupid kid (me) that turned the parts into the sandblaster 10 years ago left the horn button on and it was beat up pretty bad. I could probably find a replacement if I looked hard, but where is the fun in that? Especially since this was a "Jeep" button (I think at some point they just used a smooth, non-branded button on the M715). The edges were gone, and the surface was rough. I thought about 3D printing a replacement but that would probably have been as expensive as a genuine part. So I decided to rebuild it using epoxy.

Here's what it looked like after the sandblaster:
https://i.imgur.com/bjdZ51yl.jpg

Using epoxy to build up some material. The blue masking tape is a "form" to help keep the epoxy in place while it dried:
https://i.imgur.com/MdgiTgYl.jpg

I then did some rough hand sanding and then spun it on the lathe to get it round.
https://i.imgur.com/GdotBmql.jpg

Then paint, sand, fill, paint, sand, paint....
https://i.imgur.com/QsL4gbll.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/93JYS2ml.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ZLyWfdTl.jpg

I also reinforced the back side with some fiberglass cloth because the center had some small cracks.
https://i.imgur.com/OnXKBiXl.jpg

Finished product:
https://i.imgur.com/SgWMZQul.jpg

It still isn't perfect, but neither is the whole truck, so I am good with it.

That turned out really well.

Keep the photos coming.:)

Hi everyone,

I hope you can help me identify what connects at this brass fitting on the side of the block behind the intake manifold.
(Shown with the blue and green arrows below):
https://i.imgur.com/DwIBW2Ol.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/5i4vKBNl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/tssua1pl.jpg

The manuals refer to it as "elbow" (part 30 in pic below). But I can't find what it connects to and mine seems to have another fitting attached to it that points towards the back of the engine (green arrow in pic above). I assume it is part of all the vacuum lines? Or maybe this is a case of "someone been messin' round?"

https://i.imgur.com/z2xPXJbl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/mvbJd18l.jpg

Thanks!

Its the manifold vacuum fitting that connects directly to the vacuum pump.
Don't remember seeing the smaller fitting identified with the green arrow:confused: I need to go get a closer look at my truck.

https://i.imgur.com/oG28Gy8h.jpg

The small port goes to the distributor, the large port goes to the top of the fuel pump in the port marked "MAN". Nice work.

Thanks m38inmaine! Based on your info I was able to find the right parts in the pile and get them installed.

So among a bunch of other things, I worked on the brakes.

I used the W37263 wheel cylinders mentioned in other threads and ground out the "Mickey Mouse Ears" a bit to allow them to fit. For reference, here is a comparison with the W37263 on the left and the original on the right. You can see the difference in the distance between the edge of the ruler and the mounting holes.
https://i.imgur.com/p5putlUl.jpg

The front brakes were cleaned up without much issue. For reference, my shoes were different lengths. The front half of the axle measured about 13 inches, the rear half of the axle about 14.
Front:
https://i.imgur.com/FOxLdGhl.jpg

Rear:
https://i.imgur.com/QNX7Q4Zl.jpg

If you are looking for the rubber plugs for the star wheel adjuster, I found these and they fit well:
https://i.imgur.com/PSt7fLTl.jpg?1

I even managed to get the arrow going the right way on the upper block thingy:
https://i.imgur.com/LxRihcRl.jpg

The fronts are all set:
https://i.imgur.com/uxHvVs6l.jpg

As for the rears....

The rears were/are a mess. I pulled the left rear drum off and found this horror show:
https://i.imgur.com/tX4c3JQl.jpg

Some type of grease/crap slathered all over the shoes. No idea on the source, but the only thing I could think of was the hub seal, so I dug deeper and found the additional horror in the hub:
https://i.imgur.com/jbrcgtCl.jpg

Don't know how this happens to a bearing but it happened to mine:
(notice the nice dent at the 5 o'clock position)
https://i.imgur.com/5yueYYXl.jpg

Here is the inner seal, the spring is broken. Hard to tell if it happened during the removal or not but both the driver and passenger side seals were broken.
https://i.imgur.com/oAflnXWl.jpg

Needless to say, the cups and bearings are shot:
https://i.imgur.com/PVfEZmQl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/0VGXA7cl.jpg?1

Waiting for parts...

So the rear axle was a rusty mess. Based on the hub bearings, I assumed the diff carrier bearings were also fubar. To check those and to de-sludge the axle tubes, I had to pull the diff. I wasn't really looking forward to that since I thought special tools were required but I was able to pull it with a pry bar and a ratchet strap - it was much easier than I imagined. Thankfully, the diff bearings were in good shape - no rust contamination.
https://i.imgur.com/hoBD1Tll.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ecB7PArl.jpg

So with that stuff out, I started swabbing, scraping, washing, blasting all kinds of gunk out of the tubes. Here is a sample:
https://i.imgur.com/gOOuA6tl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/zwPGbY8l.jpg

I eventually got it into pretty good shape. I'm not saying I would eat off it but I felt much better after getting it cleaned out.

New hub bearings, cups, and seals were installed. I found all of the part numbers here on the Zone and sourced the seals and outer bearing from the internets. The inner bearing and races came from Torqueking.
It was during this process that I might have uncovered why the rear hubs were in such bad shape. First, the seals on my truck were different than the National 416282 recommended here on the Zone. These new National seals were dual-sided. The seals on my truck were 1-sided, unless 1 of the sides had rotted and contributed to the rust sludge. Second, I think one of the large nuts was not applied. There was only 1 on my truck, but the part manual shows 2 (highlighted in yellow below). It took me a while to sort that out. So I think someone at some point got in there and made a mess of things.
https://i.imgur.com/v2RLq5Dl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/sLykhVdl.jpg

I also rebuilt the rear brakes at the same time. As I mentioned previously, the rear shoes were shot due to some type of grease contamination. I broke down and bought new ones from Memphis. They only offer 1 size (about 14 inchs long):
https://i.imgur.com/f5AwGp9l.jpg

New shoes, wheel cylinders and paint. The rear brakes/hubs are now the prettiest part of the truck.
https://i.imgur.com/7oaTKhQl.jpg

Your truck looks great. Very clean and in super shape. I think you have the brake shoes on the wrong sides. The shorter lining primary shoe should be on the front side and the longer lining secondary shoe on the back side. If that is the drivers rear. Anyway, it looks really good.

Kaiserjeeps -
Thanks for the compliments, and thanks for looking at the brakes closely. You made me do a double-check. Memphis only sells one shoe size (the longer 14"), so I used the same size for both the primary and secondary shoe on the rear axle.
I didn't need new shoes for the front axle, and those had a short primary (about 13") and a long secondary.

I could not tell if that was a front or back brake. Strange Memphis does not have the right primary shoe. I wonder if a guy were to build his own if it would be worth the trouble. There is a place called Aircraft Spruce that sells brake shoe rivets and rivet tools for guys that want to redo their brakes on their planes. I bought this tool here
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...ickkey=4405910 for setting rivets on the glass run channels on a full size jeep door rebuilds. I ended up getting smaller rivets from these guys. An amazing store.
https://rivetsinstock.com/
The tool made perfect crimps. I'd hope so being an airplane brake tool. ;)
I suppose it would be good to keep your old shoes just in case. Your truck is pretty darn nice. I always enjoy looking at clean work like that. A good motivator for others. :) Thanks for clarifying. Looking forward to more.

Yeah I've got one of those tools. It can be used to rivet data plates well.

I was waiting for some other parts to arrive, so I figured I would take a look at the old, grimey PTO shaft. I was worried some of the pins/keys weren't right, and based on the state of the winch, I suspect it had seen some trauma in its life. During the removal, the stud that holds both the oil pan and the small PTO support bracket fell to the ground. Turns out it had broken, and, true-to-form, left a portion of the stud buried up in the engine block.
https://i.imgur.com/etSDOeGl.jpg

It is the hole to the right in this photo:
https://i.imgur.com/a1GUwsYl.jpg

Little tiny piece of broken bolt buried up in the block:
https://i.imgur.com/ZSUvaiLl.jpg

Turns out some other folks here on the Zone had the same problem.

I have broken a lot of bolts in unfortunate places in my life, so I wasn't looking forward to lying on my back, crap falling down in my face and trying to drill this thing out of the very important engine block. I don't know what type of charma I cashed in but I managed to drill that thing out easily, without tearing up the threads in the block.

The original stud didn't seem like a good idea in the first place, and I'm sure it is about impossible to find a replacement anyway, so I ground down a nut to use as a spacer, then a normal bolt.
The original stud:
(if you look closely, you can see the broken end portion. The rest of it was up in the block)
https://i.imgur.com/vJqbqoQl.jpg
In the background you can see my normal bolt and nut/spacer thing.

https://i.imgur.com/ggdvf2sl.jpg

The bracket went back together nicely and I was able to get a good torque of the little support bracket where it bolts into the oilpan/block.

Back to the PTO shaft.

With it out, it took a lot of scrubbing but I finally got it cleaned up. At that point I was able to look into the grub screw hole of the rear U-joint and see what appeared to be a wiped key. Maybe the U-joint broke or wiped the key and spun until it hit the grub screw. I didn't like that, so I got the bright idea to try and remove the U-joint and inspect the keyway. That U-joint yoke did not want to come off. Heat/beat no luck. So then I got the better idea to just dis-assemble the U-joint so that I could get better access to the end of the shaft to press/smash the yoke off the shaft.
Well after a while of swearing, pounding and pressing, I managed to completely mangle the yoke and joint:
https://i.imgur.com/chVW79Zl.jpg
Turns out I am a dumba$$ (no suprise), and I had not removed the copper (?) C-clips on the inside of the U-joint. I found those partway through this exercise. At one point, I had so much pressure on the joint that the end of the U-joint cup exploded off the end joint - that should have indicated I was doing something wrong. But did that stop me? No way. Let's try the other side of the joint. Smash, smash...another fubar joint. At this point, I admitted defeat and took it to a local driveshaft shop. They were able to fit a new joint (apparently that is the one thing on this truck that isn't somehow unique). They never did say if the key was wiped but they did admit "the guy had to really beat on it a while to get the yoke off". So if a pro said it was tough, then I don't feel so bad (I guess).
Nice new joint (but it doesn't have the cool "made in the USA" caps like the original had):
https://i.imgur.com/XN9gpDgl.jpg

All cleaned up and ready to go back on the truck:
https://i.imgur.com/SEBhY4Zl.jpg

Now where did that U-jont that connects to the winch go....?

You have some fantastic tech in this thread...wow...keep up the great work and posts!!!

More random mini-projects and parts:

Shocks:
I decided to go with Monroe Magnum 66902 on all 4 corners. These were mentioned in another thread, so I will give them a try. I wanted something that looked similar to the originals, and these were similar in length. They body isn't as big in diameter as the originals but they end up looking Ok on the truck. If I ever get this thing running, maybe I will say something about how they ride.
https://i.imgur.com/jxJHqyTl.jpg?1

Here is the 66902 next to the stock front. The original isn't fully extended in this photo, so they look pretty unmatched, but the 66902 bolted right up.
https://i.imgur.com/1NDQdfSl.jpg?1

Here you can see the body diameter of he 66902 is a little smaller than the original.
https://i.imgur.com/G6p0ax7l.jpg?1

Here they are installed.
https://i.imgur.com/xX6pFutl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/JIARw6ql.jpg

I also went ahead and replaced my battery/starter cables. I bought a set of cables from BatteryCablesUSA and they came quickly and seem pretty nice. I know the red color isn't stock but I liked it. That got mostly covered up anyway since I covered the positive cable with nylon corrugated tube to protect it. I moved the wire tags over from the originals too.
https://i.imgur.com/D4fz9sOl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/AMh4qD7l.jpg

Specs:
https://i.imgur.com/qgFJj0gl.jpg?2