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I think I have this picture thing figured out. We'll see. I took these last week of my t-case with the VPW conversion parts installed.
http://photo.starblvd.net/Barrman/1-...;ro=1&co=2
http://photo.starblvd.net/Barrman/1-...;ro=1&co=3
http://photo.starblvd.net/Barrman/1-...;ro=1&co=4
OK that makes links. I try again to actually get the pictures in the post. Sorry for taking up peoples time. The third photo is taken from underneath the t-case looking back. I remember somebody asking about the driveshaft clearance to the fuel tank with a straight thru conversion. Mine is not a problem.
That didn't work either. Oh well a link is better than nothing. Maybe tomorrow.
links worked for me, Ive got to get it for my truck if id ever get off my lazy butt and start workin on it.
Barrman: you're still using the stock rear? On a 14bolt/M725 it's close
its VERY close on a 14 bolt/m715 too
http://homepage.mac.com/ltalessi/.Pi...C661D711D8.jpg
Lee, that's a slick gas tank. I think I'm going to have my stocker cut and clearanced, that's too close for my liking....
Barrman- I am curious about this straight through conversion. Does the parking brake work off the driveshaft(side)? Reading about it other places, I thought you moved the parking brake assembly over to the old drive output and swapped the shaft to the brake connection. Do you have anymore pictures or further info. or links?
Dan,
Swapping the brake to the lower output is a way to do it without buying any other parts. Just swap the upper flange for the lower yoke.
Tims way requires that you buy some new parts to convert the upper spot to use a U-joint as well as the brake.
Chris
Dan,
I got the parts from Vintage Power Wagons for a total of $175.00 with shipping. All of the parts are take offs from something else and are therefore used but good quality. I call anything meant to hold a u-joint a yoke hopefully this won't confuse anybody. I did not get a picture of the parts before I put them on. I also do not have a digital camera, so pictures of the parts I took off are a few weeks away, that is once I remember to go out there, find the old parts, take pictures, and get the film processesed. The box included the following:
Slip Yoke for t-case end of rear axle drive shaft with u-joint- my old one was very stubborn coming off.
Output yoke for the straight thru position on the t-case.
U-joint clamps for the new output yoke.
Bolts to hold the u-joint clamps to the new output yoke.
That is it. I opened the smaller than expected box and saw only that. My first thought was, I spent $175.00 for this. However, the parts made my 200 straight drive and quiet. That is what I wanted.
My goal was to make my stock t-case quiet, mechanically stronger(maybe not the right word, but by eliminating the extra gears being used in 2wd, I have less slop in the drive train and hopefully more longevity from some of the parts), keep the stock e-brake and reduce the t-case heat.
I have done all of that except for the heat. My case still gets up into the 200 degree plus area when driven at high speed, 50mph, for more than 20 minutes or so. I have not driven it at 60 mph for hours like some of the other members, so I don't know how hot it will really get. Now that it is gettting hot out, I will be able to tell how high the t-case heat will really go. I will post results once we have a normall 100 degree summer day and I take a long drive for sake of science.
The conversion is very simple. It involves taking off the big nut holding the brake to the t-case.
Unbolting the brake drum from the flange the big nut held onto the t-case.
Bolt the brake drum to the yoke in the kit. You have to reverse the bolts, stock=nut and threads on rear of truck side, new = bolt head on rear of truck side.
Slide the new yoke onto the t-case.
Tighten up the big nut and put the split pin back in.
Unbolt the rear axle drive shaft from the stock t-case location.
remove the slip yoke from the drive shaft.
Install the new longer slip yoke on the drive shaft.
put the drive shaft in the new output yoke on the t-case.
Make sure everything is tight and go drive without ear plugs.
Let me know if you need any help.
Thanks! Looks pretty straight forward. I think I will order the VPW parts soon.-Dan
i was wondering if installing a oil cooler or tranny cooler to the transfer case would decrease the heat ? i think most trucks have them on the tranny and since a transfer case is metal creating friction i wonder if it would work . i think maybe a pressure issue to get a flow rate would have to be resolved . i'm sure we have some people here who will come up with something .
That issue has been discussed and debated for years and many many post.
it does not have a pump. so you would have to have an external pump capable of pumping 200* 90W oil and a cooler that it would flow through.Quote:
Originally Posted by dsal45
k
It might be easier to weld a heat sink to the case and have an electric fan blow through the fins...
Welding to cast iron? Not real easy or cheap. Also, one probably would not want the fins to reduce clearance (by putting on bottom), there's no room on top, so you'd be stuck with no alternative than to use the side(s) - not much real estate for any sizeable fins...
Bend some pipe so it goes tightly around the case, away from the exhaust, driveshafts, ebrake, fill and drain holes, speedo cable, crossmembers and mount, then put a big reservoir/cooler setup in the bed and run liquid nitrogen through the heavily insulated pipe...coolest t-case on the planet...also the most expensive and the dorkiest looking....but if it overheats, you will have exceeded the speed of light or some crap like that....
brute4c
I think I am going to take a Grinder and grind down the whole Transfer case so it's Paper thin and then it will disipate heat better!
Hey theres a good idea....cheaper too!!
brute4c
i cant remember what its called but chevron makes it. it is a synthetic gear oil that many big riggs use in their axles, its red i believe. its a little more pricy. it wont completly fix the heat problem but may offer better protection...
I have been using Eaton synthetic gear oil...they warranty semi axles that use it for 750,000 miles, and it made little to no difference in heat.
One member has used 140W-250 Red line shockproof and overfilled the case by at least double or more and with a digital gauge was running 300 degrees in there on the highway...
Is there something better?
brute4c
im sure that oil is just as good if not better. at least with the synthetic you can tell your self you tride and hope it protects the case better than regular oil in the extreme temp..
this may be stupid but it might work, make a skid plate on the bottom with slits cut 1" or so from side to side with fins to force air derect to the t case. it would be cheap to try. but would be vonerable of road.
Has anyone found a pump that can handle hot gear oil? I found two but they are exspensive. http://www.thinkauto.com/oilpumps.htm the fist one runs $200 and the second goes for $400. if anyone finds a better or cheaper one let me know.
Thats kinda been the problem with a cooler idea since we started bantering the thought around back in '98...
brute4c
How about brazing a pocket somewhere on the outside of the case using some solder and sheetmetal and running the heater return lines through that pocket? No pump required and it should be able to remove a lot of heat...
Or swap in a NP205 and call it a day...no cooler, at least as strong, no overheating, common parts if ya need them, possibility of 3:1 low range in the future....etc....
brute4c
Ok, I missed the original concept here somewhere, what is this shaft change designed to do? I did read the first posts, and still missed it.
Rich
The swap does a couple things, in order of importance:
1. The stock tcase setup is VERY loud at higher, over 40-45 MPH, speeds...this stops that completely.
2. Some tcases overheat and since less parts are rotating in this configuration, less heat should be developed, theoretically at least.
3. The rear driveshaft is more in a straight line to the rear axle, better ujoint angles, though this is a more minor effect.
Ok, showing my stupidity again, what parts are changed around how? It looks like there is an angle change to the rear shaft, but not familiar enough yet to know what else changed.
Rich
Barrman- What Tires are you using? What Gears?Stock wheels? We should have a place on the Zone to list members set-ups. Configurations and Customizations, and maybe even a Worst Booty-Fabbing for -B.
Compexp,
Look at the first page of this topic. I posted pictures and a few words several months ago about the straight thru conversion. Last week somebody asked about it. I responded with a lot of words, describing exactly what I took off, put on, what parts I used, where I got them and how much they cost. I will be glad to help, but read the first page of this topic please.
Danarchy,
Everything in my drivetrain is completely stock including the NDT tires except for the straight thru conversion. I plan on swaping out engine and trans sometime in the near future as money allows. I also have converted over to power steering. The rest of my modifications are cab and bed related or cosmetic.
Heat tracing is often applied by mounting it to the surface with a thermal cement and keeping it in place with a band (like a hose clamp). If I were going to add cooling fins to my T-case (which I'm not), I would mount them in this way and not weld to the case.
Barrman-
Sorry, this is what threw me!
I was wondering how you were going 60 mph with a stock truck.Quote:
My case still gets up into the 200 degree plus area when driven at high speed, 50mph, for more than 20 minutes or so. I have not driven it at 60 mph for hours like some of the other members, so I don't know how hot it will really get.
Are you planning to change you're gearing when you swap engines in the future? How about you're tires?Are you sticking with NTD's?
I am on the fence weather to stay stock or modify(engine,tires,gears...)
If it werent for the tcase heat, I could drive 60 all the time on the highway...sure I added a 2 barrel, locking front hubs and a civvy ignition, but I could do 60 before all that too...stock tires and gears.
brute4c
o.k.-what do Locking Front Hubs have to do with it?
Until I get my steering box issues worked out, I don't plan on setting any speed records(45 on speedo is tops so far....and I was nervous!)
Locking hubs mean you can allow the front axle shafts, differential and front drive shaft to turn freely whenever the tire turns, locked in, or not to turn, locked out. Like on a stock truck, the front tire turning, NOT in 4wd but because your moving, turns the axle, diff and driveshaft back to the tcase. This causes a lot of drag on the vehicle that the engine is overcoming by working harder. It is like driving with your ebrake half on or better all the time.
Locking out the parts that, in 2WD anyway, you are not using, gives better acceleration, less wear and tear, and better mileage. To go into 4WD, you turn the knob on the hub and engage the tcase lever and away you go...if you are going to use 4WD soon anyway, you can drive with the front axle locked in and just go in and out of 4WD just like a stock truck.
brute4c
BWAHAHAHAHAHA!!!
Dan,
You just got explained to as if you were a kid! Brute thought you had no idea what a lockout does!
Since you haven't tried to push your rig yet, you don't know- but at top speed every little bit of power you can save the motor helps you do more. It's not only that at 55 or so the motor is close to red-lining, but at that speed it's almost played out. The lockouts help that 230 get back a couple of horses and it, in turn, can turn those re-claimed horses into a few extra MPH. The lockouts do make a difference, but a difference you can only tell if you have the stock motor. If you swap it out to a 350 or something else then you can't tell if you have them locked in or out....but with the 230 it means the difference between climbing a hill at 55 or chugging down to 45.
I, too, did the lockout, 2 barrel, civvy distributor stuff in an effort to get more power. This is how it was for me:
Lockouts got me a noticeable difference.
Distributor swap got me a smoother running 230, but no noticeable power.
The 2 barrel swap was what did it. I was then able to wind the motor up so that it sounded like it was going to tear apart......and then one day on the highway I got it to 65 and it tore apart. Red-lined for too long and ate the cam.
It's all about freeing up horsepower.
-B.
I think I am putting you in the same class as boomerangs from now on b-....
brute4c
Whhaaaaa???? I love you Man!! How can you say that to me! All I want is for you to be happy!
Are you working now, or are you at home? I only ask here as opposed to in a PM because others have asked me and I think they want to know too.
Do you drink coffee? Are your boys coming with you to the FE? Are you gonna wear a chef's hat and grill?
Some of us were wondering,
-B.
(You gotta admitt, I was right in my serious post above about the lockouts. I helped Dan.)
I thought I understood Locking Hubs,and -B. made it alittle more clear, but this is the 1st 4-wheel drive vehicle I have owned. Thanks for the confusion. Barrman Help!