Another reason to hate wiring

So this weekend I continued with my 12 volt conversion (amongst other things). Thanks to Amphi I was armed with a diagram of the J truck headlight switch and I was all ready to "see the light". I have a Painless wiring harness. Anyway I hook it all up and turn them on--nothing. After checking all my solder connections etc I sit down and stare at it for a half hour--this doesnt fix the problem either. Then suddenly it comes to me--you have nothing hooked to a dimmer switch. Dig though the wires and find the dimmer switch wires. Now I need a dimmer switch-a quick run out to the parts vehicles in the woods-specifically the 79 camero that gave up its motor to my 715-I have a dimmer switch installed. Pull the switch again-presto- LIGHTS. Hit the dimmer-presto-NO LIGHTS. After more connection checking-More staring-more tester testing--more staring-some swearing. Then-geez can both the 12 volt lights I installed (taken from the above mentioned J truck) have their high beams burned out? Tester seems to confirm that but I dont really trust a piece of equipment to do its job-I want to see it happen. Another trip back to the camero-some more cursing as both headlights are cracked-a raid into uncles garage to get a rectangular light from a plow setup and back to the Kaiser--Yes both high beams could very well be burned out.

it`s always the little things that get ya. $500 dollar painless harness and beat down by a $6 headlight.been there.

Yep -Well I'm saving for the Hella headlight conversion kit that Brute and others on here have so I was gonna use the J truck lights just to get by--Cost me about 3 extra hours of my life in the end :rolleyes:

I hate that....been there done that. But that is also why I enjoy the stock Military wiring...it's pretty much just plug and play.... :)

Do you know how to check continuity with a dvm?

Not done it but I think it says how to in my multimeter manual-If I'd ever read it.

Put it on the ohm meter setting. There is usually a speaker to indicate "tone". If you find that setting and touch the red and black together, it should read "0" on the display and give you a tone. That means there is continuity. If you need to check a fuse, touch both ends, if there is tone, its good. Same for a headlight. If you get tone, its good. Lots quicker than running and getting another bulb. I have found it VERY helpful.

Continuity checking is also great for wiring to make sure that connections are solid / not linked 1 pin off, etc. Just touch the leads to each end of the run. Get a tone, the wire is good. Don't, and you know you have an issue. Fix it before the harness is in the truck, takes a lot of the guesswork out of wiring.

Zach