Again with the radiator

Ok-So all THREE M715 radiators I have leak. The one from the J truck--besides being for an auto--also leaks. 4 bad ones. Anyway I know we've been over this before but rereading the posts I printed off I want to clarify. The Chevelle radiator a few have used-How much trimming does this require? One post says you can leave the passenger mounting brace-which leads me to believe you have to hack the other off??? Or is it a slight trim job? Its between the Chevelle big block and the Summit racing brand one that will require fabbing up a mount-no big deal. At least maybe I'll get 80 to 100 back on the 4 fubar ones I have. Any thoughts???

Okay...I used the Chevelle 396 Rad that I bought off ebay for about 180. When it arrived I had to trim off the two flanges (one left/one right) on the forward side of the u-shaped mounting set up. That sounds way more complicated than it is. I used an angle grinder with a super thin blade and it took all of 10 minutes because I took my time and went slow. Then after I slid it in place I decided the top stuck up too high, so I cut out the diagonal braces on the frame just under the rad. Thennnn...I took it down and had the hose port relocated two inches or so to the outboard to provide clearence for the fan blades....
It took some fitting but now I have a trouble free, brandy-newy, more than capable radiator. I wouldn't have done it any other way or used any other set-up. I considered going with the aluminum buttt- I was concerned about the brittle nature of aluminum and the inevitable flexing of the frame. You'd probably have to make some provision for the flexing like maybe rubber mountings for the alum. rad. M-o-r-e fabbing. Just my two cents.

The Chevlle radiator is:

Modine #289 or equivalent

and it fits the 66-67 Chevele 396, among others.

If you have a stock engine, I would just take the stock radiator to a radiator shop and have them clean and repair the leaks. I have had several done cost me about $70 each.

If you have a v8 then get a bigger radiator like the chevelle 396 radiator.

FNG, you may have already replaced/relocated those braces. If not, you might want to. They help keep the frame a rectangle instead of a parallelogram.

I've got a SBC (which was fired for the first time this weekend and sounds and runs like a r#pped ape by the way-not that I'm excited to be a few items away from driving it or anything)-Beast has my stock drivetrain now. I'm just concerned about any major fabbing on the Chevelle radiator. My cousin runs the Summit one in his CJ with a bored and stroked SBF and electric fan and has no issues. I'm thinking if I sweat off the outside braces on one of the old M715 radiators-weld a cross channel on the bottom and "slots" on the top (kinda a U shape) then put rubber bumpers on the sides and bottom (summit radiator is narrower and 2inches shorter) then slide the radiator in the top--hold in with a top plate like any other vehicle made forever. Anyone following me??? I was just thinking if the Chevelle one was more slide in with nothing but a clip or grind here or there I'd go with it. Sounds like its half a dozen one way or the other.

i used the chevell rad. in my swap. i bought a junk-yard 350 chevy and the hose on the motor were the right ones. 1971 or '72 chevy nova doner. i made spacers for the mounting brackes that came on the chevell rad. rad is spaced about 1/2 inch toward the rear of the truck. i just used washers and longer bolts. except for moving the right core support over it was almost a bolt in. and, yes i cut the braces out under the rad to make it sit lower so the hood would close. i had to buy a new fan from summit. cools great in the texas heat. my truck is a farm truck and has to earn it's keep. been working great for 2 years now with no problems.