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I've got my frame tore down ready to blast and modify. A friend of mine suggested longer springs for more flex. The GM '84 Dana 60's perches are narrower and if I go with longer springs I will rebuild the spring mounts to match the axle. It seems that the mounts could be moved directly under the frame and match the width of the axle.
What has been done by zoners? Any recommendations on donor springs?
Trying to stay stock height or not?
Pay attention to the axle perches on the front axle before you get to far, narrower spring placement is going to put the passenger side further into the differential housing. The rear should be much more accepting to these mods....also note that you can stuff a 38" tire into the front wheel well pretty easy on stock springs. Softer springs are going to allow this to happen easier and taller than stock axle snubs will probably be needed to limit up travel...all that work for a little more droop on the opposite side. I have to think it would be better to leave the front alone and concentrate on the rear. That's just my opinion though.
GM springs are much, MUCH flatter than Jeep stuff. Aside from that, ditto on what Doug said.
Mounting the front springs inboard makes things kind of interesting. Is there room at the pumpkin? (there is on Ford axles, but not Chevy). Will going to longer springs put the tire into the fenders more? (yes, it will, the axles will be moving back and forth more with longer springs-- about 1.5" more, when I compared full stuff on the 715 and the Burb-- I was going to use long springs too. :) )
remember that anything that increases leverage on the springs, be it side to side by inboarding them, or back and forth by removing leaves, can cause other problems. Axlewrap is one thing you want to watch out for. It's easy to rig up an anti-wrap bar in the rear, front not so much though due to space issues.
In search of more flex, I tore my springs apart, got them down to bare metal, then sprayed them with a graphite lubricant/paint called Slip Plate. I also removed 1 spring from each pack. Now I have heard from a couple different Zoners as to which leafs to remove. I removed a different leaf than they did, so we will see what happens. I plan on doing the famous "forklift test" soon to see how much more flex I get (I haven't built an RTI ramp yet). The suspension will still be stiff, but should be an improvement over stock. In my opinion, I'd rather try modifying the existing spring packs before I tried to make use of donor ones.
Ok... good input. You two suggest using the same springs. Do you know of anyone who has done anything different? I saw one zoner's pics of a modified perch that crossed the housing heights (Bell housing start).
I like the solid perch of the existing CUCV design (perch is over the bigger diameter of the bell housing flange) and the HUGE anti wrap bars (1" solid bar).
I just got done setting up a chevy front end under mine. The passenger side perch ended up needing to be 1/4" on to the chunk to line up right on both sides. I stayed spring under but there shouldn't be much issue either way. I ended up setting mine with 6 degrees of caster in it. I have no clue what the chevy axle normally is but the ford stuff all recommended 4-8 degrees.
As far as springs I am keeping the stock ones but they are so stiff I can jack up the whole front end with a jack under the chunk. Most vehicles would only pick up one side....
"Chunk" is the technical term I was trying to remember.
Thanks tng
Col, I'm leaving my front alone for now as it really does flex beter than one expects.
The rear maight as well be welded solid to the frame...LOL
I have a set of rear springs from an 88 wag and plan to keep the main leaf from the m715 pack and use the remainder of the wag springs under it. Uninstalled and untested so I can't give you any real world feedback on it yet.
I have mocked Chevy springs up. You need to redo both mounts on the frame, and the perches, if you want to use them on the 715, at least without compromising.
You also have to pay very close attention to where the center pin ends up, and your pinion angle, since GM frames are different. Can't just throw them under there.... but it's just some careful measuring.
I opted not to use mine due to huge axlewrap issues w/Rockwells and soft springs, and the axle moving back and forth under compression/extension. Stock for now. ;)
I like your input Tacoma... I believe after looking at other's rigs with stock suspensions, I will use the stock springs with the new axles. I will document and photograph all the mods I make to the frame for prosperity.