1971 Jeep Kaiser 6217- Build

Hi Everyone, dad and I are starting on our latest project, a 1971 6217 maintenance truck! Overall the truck is in good condition, just needs alot of TLC everywhere, years of no maintenance.

The current project is to figure out why the 230 I6 idles rough, and seems to be down on power. Possibly 1-2 cylinders are not firing.

Step 1: Compression check, all cylinders are above 120psi, which should be plenty to run.
Step 2: Pulled the valve cover, cam lobes and rockers are in good working order.
Step 3: Spark plug wire continuity check, all wires have good contact
Step 4: Investigate distributor

This is where we need some help on the distributor. The top section of the distributor seems loose, and rotates slightly from the hold-down section of the base. Wouldn't this allow the timing to dart around?

Thanks in advance to any help you can provide!

Here is a picture of the 6217 next to my 67 M715:

https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net...0e&oe=5B111757

Here is a picture of the distributor, with the cap removed. The rotor, cap, and coil look to have been replaced recently and in good shape. Points are good working order.

Still, the looseness of the distributor has me worried about the placement of timing.

https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net...73&oe=5B4BAD4B

Thats surely odd...shouldnt be that way...there is a bolt on the bottom of the top part of the housing that sirs in an opening to allow for timing...is that bolt there and tight? Maybe thats where it is wiggling?
Here is a pic that shows the bolt on the underside...follow the shafy up and there is a plate with 2 slots in it at the bottom of the ignitor body...you can just make out the hold down bolt in the image:
http://www.m715zone.com/vb/pages/manuals/20/fig2-29.jpg

Nice looking trucks both of them! At first glance at the picture I thought why does he have that wood gazebo in the bed of his 715 until I realized that it's just the angle the picture was taken at. Booth trucks are nice. Congrats on the new one.

Edit: Check the coil. Even though it looks like it's been replaced it might not have been, plus there are Chinese made coils out there that are known to have a short lifespan and get all wanky so take a look at that.

Are you talking about the points plate? That could* let timing scatter, but could also produce weak or no spark.

It does look like a screw is missing for the condensor, been a while, but sometimes they go through the plate and help hold things in alignment.

The rotor is directly connected to the shaft and that allows current to flow to the cap and through the wires to each plug. A worn shaft bushing could allow timing scatter. There should be no perceivable play on the shaft (except rotational).

There is a ramp on the shaft that pushes on the points, if the points plate is loose, it could loose contact with the points, or keep them closed when not intended.

Military vehicles are a little harder, so maybe you could modify some civvy spark plug wires. But pulling them one at a time could locate the bad cylinder. If the cylinder moves around, it's either fuel or spark related.

Very carefully check the cap for cracks or evidence of spark arcing. Make sure the carburetor is clean and there is adequate fuel pressure/flow.

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk

Thanks Brute4C, you hit the nail on the head with providing that distributor picture. Both "hold-down" distributor bolts were loose. Once I tightened them both, it holds the distributor down tight! I didn't see the one coming up from the bottom, into the base of the distributor. ;-)



We did more work on the truck today, set the valves, and noticed that the timing chain had some slop in it. Proceeded to remove the front timing cover and found that the chain has over an inch of slop, and that the timing marks on the gears do not line up! I think we found the issue!

The cam gear timing mark, left of center:
https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net...5d&oe=5B09B0A8

The crank gear timing mark, top of crank:
https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net...30&oe=5B3FE6D7

Pressing in on the timing chain:
https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net...87&oe=5B100460

Holding out on the time chain:
https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net...bd&oe=5B3DE673

Everything removed from the front of the Jeep 230 Tornado engine:
https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net...c7&oe=5B13E4F5

Inside of the timing cover:
https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net...5e&oe=5B02E357

And installed a new canvas top today!:
https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net...31&oe=5B493158

Also, while rotating the engine by hand setting the valves, I heard a clicking noise coming from the bellhousing area, ended up being the starter bendix. Looks like it is permanently engaged :eek:

https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net...93&oe=5B057D68

It takes a fair amount of rpm to get the bendix to retract...a wire wheel on an angle grinder isnt enough I know...

It **should** retract if the motor starts...otherwise it is bad for sure.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brute4c

It takes a fair amount of rpm to get the bendix to retract...a wire wheel on an angle grinder isnt enough I know...

It **should** retract if the motor starts...otherwise it is bad for sure.

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I think that is correct too.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brute4c

It takes a fair amount of rpm to get the bendix to retract...a wire wheel on an angle grinder isnt enough I know...

It **should** retract if the motor starts...otherwise it is bad for sure.

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Mine was pretty gummed up with old grease or leaked oil or something and needed some Teflon penetrating oil to restore its proper function.